Cooperative Care: Open Mouth Training

Earlier this year I was introduced to the concept of open mouth training as a means of cooperative care in husbandry. My friend Ryan Talbot had been teaching it to wolves and other species with great success, and I thought it might be a useful skill for dogs, for less stressful access to their mouths at home and in the vet clinic. One thing led to another, and I ended up creating some props to teach my own dogs and apply the skill in the real world. This post is for the folks who have expressed interest in making their own props, and those curious about how I trained my own dogs to use them.

If you’re looking for building instructions you’ll find them here:

What follows are the steps I used to train my own dogs, as well as things to watch for along the way. You’ll see me toss a treat behind the dog as sort of a reset. It simply sets the dog up to approach the dumbbell at the angle that will help him the most, and lets the dog move and takes off any pressure they might be feeling while they learn.

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Mouthing

Step 1: Mouthing

You’ll be starting with Dumbbell #1, which has the two cross bars closest together. For my dogs, who came installed with the love of using their mouths to pick things up and share them with me, they already had a solid retrieve, hold and take when we started open mouth training. When I first showed them the prop and gave them the opportunity to explore it, marking and rewarding for putting touching it with their nose was quickly followed by licking the prop, which was also marked and rewarded. It was a quick transfer to putting their mouths on the dumbbell.

If your dog likes putting things in his mouth, I recommend trying this approach with your own dog and seeing how they respond to it. You’ll know pretty quickly if it’s going to work or not.

To start, be sure one of the bars on the dumbbell is over the other bar while you hold it for your dog. *For each step, repeat until he is eager to repeat the behavior.

1. Show your dog the dumbbell. Mark and reward for sniffing it.*

2. When the dog to touches the bar on the dumbbell with his nose, mark and reward the nose touch.*

3. When the dog to touches the bar with his tongue, mark and reward the lick.*

4. When the dog puts any part of his mouth on the bar, mark and reward the mouth behavior.*

If you don’t see a relatively straight forward progression with your own dog, you might want to consider teach your dog a retrieve first, before incorporating this dumbbell training into that process. Once that's done, follow the steps above again to start the process.

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Step 2: Mouth on Both Bars

In this step I’m rewarding the dog for any attempt to put his mouth around both bars, whether it’s lips or teeth. I’m not expecting any sort of duration, just focusing on any attempt to include both bars of the dumbbell in the mouth, even if only momentary.

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Gripping

Step 3: Gripping the Dumbbell

Some dogs have a preference to hold things in the front of their mouths, while others prefer to grip with the molars in the back of their mouth. In the video above notice that the dog is mouthing the dumbbell with the front of his mouth, whereas the dog in the video on the left is gripping with her molars. Because of her preference, I’ll need to build in some extra time and patience to help her become more comfortable holding the cross bars in the front of her mouth. Ideally you’ll want the two cross bars to rest behind the canine teeth.

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Step 4: Let the dog take it

In order to help the dog understand that a hold is what we’re looking for, once the dog is gripping the dumbbell reliably, you’ll want to build in a few reps where you actually let the dog take the dumbbell from you. Practice this skill until you’re sure the dog knows that holding onto it is the right answer. This will be critical before you move to the next step.

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Holding

Step 5: Brief hold while you hold it.

I learned something new about my dogs while trying to figure out what might work best for each of them during this phase. I decided to try a “wait” cue while the dog had it’s mouth on the dumbbell in hopes that it would translate into a hold. While that worked nicely for the dog on the left below, for the dog on the right she was sure it meant stop whatever you’re doing and hold still! She’d let go of the dumbbell and stand perfectly still each time. I had to come up with a different plan for her.

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Plan A

While this dog wasn’t sure what to do the first time I said “wait,” he easily made the connection and was able to apply it the second time. He was quickly able to apply duration of any length and hold it until the behavior was marked.

Plan B

For this dog I decided to incorporate a slight pull back while was gripping the dumbbell so that she would pull back, and then develop duration by
continuing to pull for slightly longer periods of time as shown below.

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Because the end behavior I’m looking for included holding the dumbbell behind the K9 teeth, and this dog prefers to grip by the molars, I had to incorporate some time and patience while she explored how this felt in her mouth, only pulling slightly when the bars were behind her K9 teeth.

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Only after she understood that the bars of the dumbbell should rest behind her K9 teeth could we begin to work on duration, by pulling slightly for a longer period of time, in very small increments, sometimes even just one second more at a time.

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Transition to Wider Dumbbells

Step 6: Gripping

As you introduce dumbbell #2 and then #3, you’ll want to give your dog time and space to move his mouth freely and discover that placement of the bars in his mouth that is most comfortable. You’ll know the dog has found the right placement when he stops moving. Let him do so uninterrupted, only marking for duration after that occurs. Once the dog is comfortably gripping dumbbell #2, you’re ready to transition to dumbbell #3.

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Step 7: Holding

Once you get to dumbbell #3, you might find that the dog struggles to grip when he’s right on top of the dumbbell. Backing the dog up, either with a cue or by tossing a treat, will give him the opportunity to see both bars on the reapproach, setting him up for greater success.

In the video on the right, notice the time and space given for the dog to find the dumbbell position most comfortable to him.

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Adding Movement While Holding

Step 8: Adding Movement

When you’re ready to start moving the dumbbell while the dog is holding it, start slow, as shown on the left. Make sure the dog understands that holding it even though its moving is the right answer. Only then begin adding longer periods of movement in varying directions.

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Transition to Halo

Step 9: Introducing the Halo

When switching to the halo, let the dog check out this new device to their liking first. Then be as straight forward as you can. Focus on rewarding for gripping. You should be able to incorporate duration and movement in short order. The video on the left shows transitioning to the halo, far from a finished product, but included to show how easily a dog can make the switch. The video on the right shows practicing with no lights, and then turning the lights on.

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Adding a Person

Step 10: Adding a Helper

If your goal is to incorporate open mouth training into a veterinary setting, you’ll want to include training your dog to hold the halo while another person is examining and potentially handling the dog’s mouth in some way. This video shows a few ideas that break the training into thin slices. Ideally I’d be taking more time to practice each step along the way. In the interest of time, I’ve incorporated a lot in a very short period of time just to give you some ideas.

The steps above are simply the steps that made sense to me in working with my dogs. You may find something completely different more useful for your own dog, if so, feel free to share your process in the comments below. It may help someone else. Happy training! Have fun!

A Buzz Puzzle

If you want to know what’s bothering the dog, pay attention to the part of the dog your eye is drawn to when you watch them move. I learned this from Suzanne Clothier many years ago at a seminar on the physical dog, and it has helped me in countless ways over the years, both professionally and personally.

Last fall Buzz came up lame in her left rear, after a fun play session with a friend, and she’s been off ever since then. It aligned with some of the random little things I had been seeing for some time but couldn’t make sense of: kicking out on that leg while standing or laying down, maybe three times over several months? Biting at her stifle on occasion, as if she had an itch, also three or four times over several months. Mild off weighting on the leg from time to time. It wasn’t until after she came up lame that other things became more apparent: not willing to climb into my lap on the recliner, or climb in bed to sleep with us, things certainly consistent with her injury, but perhaps not coincidence that it lined up with some of the more subtle things I had been seeing.

After three months of exercise restriction Buzz improved greatly, but my eye continued to be drawn to her left rear, and she was also beginning to sit crooked or choose not to sit at all when asked, something very unlike her.

We scheduled an ortho consult with Skylos Sports Medicine, which led to a series of appointments to take a closer look at what might be causing Buzz’s distress. It was pleasing to watch Buzz walk off confidently with the technician during her first drop off appointment for xrays. She looked like she had lived there her whole life, but she was eager to get back to me when I came to pick her up. At her second appointment she got a little barky in the reception area when people approached, and then sounded the alarms when the doctor and tech walked into the exam room, startling all of us! By our third appointment she was barking at random people on sight in the parking lot, before we even entered the building, and then more once we went inside. When the time came, she was NOT pleased to be taken away from me again for the day.

While the staff at Skylos assured me that she was a model patient while she was with them over the course of all three appointments (and I trust them implicitly), the pattern of reactions Buzz, who is a registered therapy dog, was beginning to have toward random strangers was unnerving to me. It was so unlike her, and I wanted desperately to help rebuild her trust with strangers for the long term, and hopefully to make this week’s upcoming surgical drop off less stressful for her.

With the help of a few friends, we set up a couple of training sessions, where I could look for patterns in Buzz’s responses to evaluate how she was feeling about what, and when.

Here’s what I know to be true of Buzz:

1. If she’s pulling while on leash, her arousal is too high.

2. If she’s barking, her arousal is too high.

3. If she’s taking treats with a hard mouth, her arousal is too high.

4. If her arousal is too high it means she’s not comfortable with the situation.

5. When she’s comfortable, she’s able to make eye contact with me, she will, and quite often. 

Fortunately, the friends I enlisted to help me with Buzz also understand these principles and were able to adjust accordingly while working with her. 

The questions I was hoping Buzz would provide me with answers to were: 

How do you feel when you first get out of the van?

Her Answer: She was alert, vigilant, not interested in treats, and unable to make eye contact with me.
My Response: Just wait. Wait for her to orient to the environment. Given time, her breathing and movement settled, she began offering eye contact, and was eager to take the treats as a reward for doing so, repeatedly.

At what point do you bark at a human being?

Her Answer: From pretty far away! At least 50 feet while the person was standing still, and almost immediately upon getting out of the vehicle.
My Response: See above. Once we established fluid connection on a loose leash while we stood still, I greeted my friend from that distance, still acknowledging Buzz’s eye contact when offered. Then I took the first few steps toward my friend, and Buzz started pulling on leash in the general direction of the person. That told me that her arousal had shifted and she was out of balance again. I waited until she could make eye contact with me again and that she was taking her food rewards gently. Once in fluid connection, I took a few more steps and Buzz was able to walk with me on loose leash all the way to the person.

How do you feel about being near the stranger?

Her Answer: I gave her some treats for making eye contact with me and noticed her hard mouth, indicating that she was starting to struggle.
My Response: I continued chatting with my friend and rewarding Buzz for eye contact, paying special attention to when she was able to take the treats gently from my hand. That’s when I knew we were ready for the next step. Having given my friend some treats, I asked her to offer some to Buzz, who was still standing on a loose leash next to me. She was able to take them with a soft mouth.

How do you feel about moving away from me with a stranger?

Her Answer: I held the leash while my friend invited Buzz to take a few steps away from me and come right back. My friend reported that Buzz was taking her treats gently.
My Response: None needed. She’s got this!

How do you feel about moving away from me with a stranger who has your leash?

At first my friend only moved away a few steps as she had done before and reported that Buzz was still taking treats nicely. As my friend began moving further away from me with Buzz, she continued monitoring how Buzz was taking treats and whether she was on a loose leash while I monitored if and how Buzz glanced back at me while they worked together away from me. When Buzz took a treat hard, or took a step towards me instead of working with her new friend, they moved closer to me until she was ready to try it again. Within no time, Buzz was pleased to saunter off with her new friend and wave at me while they explored the world together, even when taken out of sight.

With those questions answered, I’ve got some ideas to work with prior to dropping Buzz off for surgery in three days. And Buzz got a couple of good experiences work with strangers under her belt.

The day before I drop her off, Seger has a physical therapy appointment at Skylos, so I’ll bring Buzz and do some similar work with her before and after his appointment. Hopefully I’ll be able to enlist a couple of staff members to help me in a similar vein with the end goal of Buzz being more comfortable when she’s dropped off the next day. If that goes south, I’ll discuss some other options for her with them that might allow me to be with her during pre-sedation in some way.

And once all that is said and done, I’ll put what I learned to good use to help Buzz feel better about strangers again. The good news is that she genuinely likes people, so we’ve just got to get over this hump together.

Want to know more about the skills I’ve learned to incorporate over time? Check out www.suzanneclothier.com. As always, big thanks to Suzanne, for your support and all you’ve taught me over the years. And thanks to Stephanie and Megan for helping me work through this with Buzz.

Kissed by a Roadie

A little over a week ago I got an urgent text from a client. “Help! Help” it started. She had been driving down a major interstate to find a German Shepherd puppy running into oncoming traffic, had somehow managed to get him into her vehicle, and wasn’t sure what to do next. After guiding her to get him to a veterinarian to be scanned for a microchip, it was discovered that he hadn’t been chipped. Also no tags. She reported him missing to Animal Control in the county where he was found along with all the surrounding counties and learned that, while she wasn’t required to bring him directly to the shelter, he did need to be held for thirty days before going into an official foster or rescue program, to give his people the chance to find him. My client’s challenge was that she was in the process of moving.

I’ve never considered myself a foster kind of person. Don’t get me wrong, I have great respect for those of you who do foster, and appreciate each of you beyond words. But there was something about this dog that spoke to me, and I soon realized that I had the chops to put all I had learned over the years to good use in a new way and to help this fellow and my client. So, I offered to take him in for that period, and to foster him beyond if his people couldn’t be found. Due to his circumstances, we named him Roadie.

With four dogs in the house who had been specifically selected for us and each other using Suzanne Clothier’s CARAT assessments I understood that their stable temperaments would make bringing in a new dog relatively straight forward, if the dog I was bringing in had CARAT traits to match their needs. More specifically I knew that Diva’s Arousal and Confidence would require a dog who takes very good notes about other dogs, that Buzz’s Energy meant that the dog’s Arousal and Predatory/Chase Persistence would need to be just right, and that Swift’s Social Use of Space required a dog who wasn’t pushy.

As a Certified CARAT Assessor, I knew that I had the knowledge to evaluate this little guy and learn more about him, so we scheduled a meet up and I just watched him interact with the world. He had already been living peacefully with my client’s two reactive dogs, without separation, and that told me a lot about how respectful he would be with my own dogs, who are not reactive. I watched how he took space relative to the humans around him and knew that he neither took space without invitation, nor needed big space from others. I watched how he responded to some of the wildlife and farm animals around him and learned that his Arousal and Predatory/Chase Persistence might present a bit of a challenge with Buzz’s Energy, but was willing to take a chance on that knowing that he was respectful and attentive to the communications of other dogs, and that I had the means to intervene if necessary.

Still guarding my heart and knowing that it could potentially be broken when it was time to transition Roadie wherever he was to end up, I became more convinced that I could handle this as I learned about his Environmental and Social Confidence along with his Arousal and Resilience. It was abundantly clear that this guy could handle life wherever he landed and handle it well, so I agreed to take him in, regardless of the outcome.

Thanks to Suzanne’s Elemental Questions, when I picked him up a couple of days later I knew I had the tools to meet his needs every step of the way, that asking “How is this for you?” and listening for Roadie’s answer would help me give him what he needed during this transition and beyond. He was clear about needing time to defrag, rest and regroup for the first three days he was with us, and we gave him the time and space needed to make that so. No pressure, no expectations. He was free to interact with us and the rest of the environment as he wished, and happily played with toys and our other dogs. As he became more curious about the humans in the house, I sought out those social interactions both at home and on the road. He enjoyed visiting with folks, and especially loved their touch. Then I asked how he felt about some basic training, and he made it clear he was all about using his sharp mind for treats, so we started some work that would help him in the future. We both enjoyed those two days immensely.

Further evaluation of Roadie’s CARAT traits helped me understand that he LOVED using his nose, that he wasn’t particularly interested in social interactions with people unless he was prompted, and that he’s a show me the money kind of guy. No treats? No work. This gave me plenty of information to find him a home that would suit him well if it came to that. I was feeling pretty good about that transition if needed.

In the meantime, I joined every local lost pets group on Facebook, and scanned them multiple times a day, without any success, until yesterday. A week after being found, there he was. His people were missing him, looking for him, and hoping for his safe return.

Last night I called the number on the poster, asked for some details that would confirm it was Roadie they were looking for, and then took him to be reunited with his family. It turns out the pup, who was now seven months old, was purchased for their six-year-old son. The son had forgotten to close the gate to their fenced yard before going off to school one morning. As I listened to more about the family’s story on the scene, it made me smile to understand just how perfectly this dog fit into his home. A young boy might or might not give the dog the time of day depending on whatever else might catch his fancy, matched with a dog who didn’t particularly care about social interactions until he was called, was a nice combo. A dog who loves to be touched, perfect for a kid who would certainly have his hands all over him. A dog who wasn’t particularly biddable without treats was much better matched with a family not interested in putting the pressures of training on him. Their location, close to that major interstate where he was found, made it much less likely for Roadie to come across the deer, foxes and other wildlife he showed great willingness to chase when he was with us. And he would be free to use his nose all he wanted, likely without much interruption. Without CARAT, I might have been heartbroken to return Roadie to his rightful owners.

Any room left in me for heartbreak completely evaporated as soon as Roadie got out of the van and leaped towards the six family members who came to pick him up. His squeals of joy, their laughter, the celebration. A dog and his boy. It was a sight to behold, and a memory I’ll hold on to for a very long time.

To the client who trusted me and gave me the opportunity to be a part of this fellow’s life, to Suzanne Clothier, who gave me the tools to get it right, to everyone who met him and loved on him, and especially to Roadie, thank you.

It’s a quiet morning here. Peaceful. Just right. The tag I ordered for Roadie just arrived in the mail. It’ll be a nice way to remember a very special few days.

Keep Moving

If you’ve been doing nose work for any amount of time, you’ve likely heard someone tell you to “keep moving” when you handle your dog. Back in the day, it’s definitely something I coached people to do. But what does that mean? Why do it? And what does it even look like?

Desperate to provide a solution to clients whose dogs were false alerting, what people began to notice is that it was happening as soon as the handler stopped and stood still. And so, the idea to keep moving was born.

I’ve seen it manifest in many different ways over the years. There’s the march in place version, the leave your dog behind and keep walking version, the potty dance version, and many more. The problem with any of these is that it sends a mixed message to the dog, creating conflict which can distract, confuse, worry or just plain annoy the dog, when all we really mean to do is work together as a team. Instead of supporting the dog in the search, we’re busy being all weird and artificial, hoping and praying we don’t get the dreaded “NO.”

There’s so much more to it than “keep moving” though. I can’t speak for the dog, but having focused on connection, communication and relationship building with dogs for many years now, this is what I do know:

• Orienting towards each other fosters communication between dog and handler.

• Orienting towards the dog is loaded with expectations that treats are coming.

• Standing in or moving with the dog in heel position is often a very rewarding place for the dog to be. It’s loaded with expectations of food reward.

• Facing the dog potentially prevents him from being able to use the space the way he needs to, causing him to look at you instead.

• Eye contact is a powerful connector. It usually opens the door to a deeper conversation… and more treats.

• Whatever we’re orienting towards tells the dog it’s important.

All of these cues we’re throwing without meaning to can distract the dog from an independent search. He isn’t lying. He is simply responding to what makes sense to him.

With those ideas in mind, I now offer a more organic approach to handling the nose work dog:

• Let your dog lead the search. When he’s searching, stay behind his butt and off to the side, so you can see what his nose is doing, and he can keep track of you. That means slowing down when he slows down and picking up the pace again when he does.

• Face the same direction as your dog, with a relaxed leash when moving with the dog. It sends a message that you’re on the same team and confident in his abilities.

• At some point during your search, your dog will turn and orient towards you as he continues to search. When he does, get out of his way. Yield space by stepping to the side, pivoting so you both are facing the same direction, and then giving him a moment to lead again while you fall into place behind him and off to the side.

Practice this approach when you’re out on a walk together and see what you think. Have someone video you if you can. Discovering the nuances in communication between you and your dog without the presence of odor will make it much more straight forward for you when you’re in the trenches. Best of luck in your nose work endeavors!

Surgery for Seger

In the summer of 2021, and after months of watching Seger struggle with Panosteitis, my gut told me that there was still something else was going on, so I took him to see Dr. Peter Lotsikas at Skylos Sports Medicine, where he was subsequently diagnosed with Osteochondrosis in his left stifle, and Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD) in his right stifle.

We spent countless hours researching the condition and weighing out the treatment options with friends and experts. The bottom line is this: while the chances of complete resolution in his stifles is questionable, at two years of age Seger’s best chance of comfort for the rest of his life is surgery. It was scheduled for Tuesday, August 10, 2021.

A conditioning plan was put into place in the months prior to surgery to prepare his body for recovery, including weight loss, daily walks, swimming and other exercises for muscle development, and introducing the daily stretches that will become part of his rehab program post-surgery.

Additionally I started thinking about what else might be important to introduce him to so that he’d have some experience under his belt prior to the big day, and put a plan in place. It’s been quite overwhelming at times, so I thought spelling it out in print might settle my mind a bit, and help others who find themselves in such a daunting position.

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Conditioning Work

Swimming is a great way to build muscle without putting concussive forces on joints. Regardless of Seger’s surgical outcome, developing muscle to support his knees will stand him in good stead for life. We had tried introducing him to swimming when he was a young pup, pre COVID, but were unable to follow up during shut down. With restrictions lifted, swimming was re-introduced at a beach with some canine buddies, so that he could walk into the water and push off to swim more naturally than in a pool with a ramp or steps. Seger’s friends were able to model fun in the water for him, and it wasn’t long before he was the swimming like a fish. Now it’s a regular part of his conditioning program.

Passive Range of Motion Exercises

The great folks at Skylos put together an at home plan to prepare Seger for the Passive Range of Motion (PROM) exercises we’ll be doing to rehabilitate him post-surgery. These exercises will help to increase his movement and flexibility and improve his overall joint health. Getting started on them before surgery means Seger will already be familiar with them when he’s ready to start them after his procedure.

Seger assumes the position. It’s clear that he enjoys this work.

Pain Management & Physical Therapy

In addition to physical therapy Seger will be visiting Skylos weekly after his surgery for massage and laser therapy. He’s already visited a few times for treatments. It’s given him some relief while we wait for the big day, and set the expectation of things to come in the next few months as a way to provide some relief as he adjusts to his body moving in new ways. And that’s given me some relief too! When he’s ready, we’ll add some physical therapy to the mix as well.

Here he is enjoying some laser therapy.

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Experience

Another consideration in preparing Seger for the recovery process is what he’ll experience outside of physical exercise. He won’t be able to use stairs for some time, and we live in a two story house and sleep upstairs. He sleeps in the bed with us!

We’ve already prepared an indoor fenced area for him to stay in so that he doesn’t have access to furniture or stairs, a place where the other dogs won’t interrupt him while he rests, and one that will prevent him from running and playing. He spends time enclosed in his pen, chewing on bones and kongs. We also we leave the pen open so that he’s free to come and go as he pleases.

Unfortunately there’s no access to our home that doesn’t involve stairs, but we did have this wheel chair lift installed for my mom earlier this year. We’ll be using it to get Seger in and out of the house for potty walks, so we’ve spent some time training him how to ride in it calmly and only exit when prompted. We also do his daily PROM exercises here, from the elevated position, since it’s uncomfortable for me to work on the floor with him for an extended period of time. He doesn’t have to jump up, and I don’t have to get on the floor.

In the first few days post-surgery he’ll likely need some help getting up and down, and possibly balancing and walking. He’s been getting used to his Help ‘Em Up harness, which has handles over his shoulders and hips so that we can give him the physical support he needs to navigate to and fro during what will be a challenging time for him. Here he sports his harness while playing outside.

While he’s familiar with the dreaded Cone of Shame, reintroducing it will set the stage for his comfort when we’ll need to be sure he doesn’t have access to his incisions. This style is called a Comfy Cone, which consists of nylon sleeve filled with sturdy sheets of foam. Easier on his body and ours!

Once Seger is out of his harness we can also switch from the Comfy Cone to these Lick Sleeves, so that he can move around a bit more freely and his incisions will still be protected. (We’ll still be using the Comfy Cone when he’s unattended.)

We’ve got one more experience to put in place prior to Seger’s big day: overnight camping! We’ve already set up an air mattress close to his fenced area where one of us will be sleeping while he’s unable to use stairs, and will be overnight camping while he’s in his pen a couple of nights prior to his surgery.

While Seger was in a cone and an expen for the first two weeks post surgery one of us slept downstairs with him. When the cone came off we were able to transition from an expen to a crate at night, but we weren’t sure how he’d feel about sleeping alone, and wanted to be available to him if he needed us, so we purchased a baby monitor to see how he’d respond. With the monitor on our headboard and the volume turned up, he can wake us if necessary, and we can peek in on him for piece of mind while also getting a good night’s sleep for a fresh start the next day.

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What Else?

Slippery floors! We’ll have to take great care to see that Seger gets out for his potty walks safely, determine what that path will be, and add non-slip mats where needed to be sure his new knees (and the rest of his recovering body) are protected.

We’ve given some thought to the triggers in our house that send him racing around like a nut, like running to the door to bark at intruders or when my husband comes home from work. Creating a plan that will prevent those things from happening will be critical to his recovery.

We’ve strategically placed his pen in a spot where he can’t look out the glass door to see when vehicles drive up to the house. But what to do about the other dogs who can see outside? We’ll have to put something on the glass so they won’t be able to see out and alert either, because Seger likes to join in.

He’s very serious about protecting his home from strangers, and drivers show up daily with deliveries from UPS, Amazon, Instacart and more. Mostly they aren’t seen or heard, but occasionally they feel the need to knock on the door or ring the bell to let us know they’ve delivered something. Attaching a laminated sign to the front door will hopefully prevent that, and keep Seger from feeling the need to jump to his feet out of a good rest.

Additionally my husband and I have discussed a plan to prevent Seger from his loud and boisterous celebrations when Alan comes home from work. Texting me when he turns on our street will give me an opportunity to prepare Seger for his arrival in such a way that he can greet Alan quietly and without turning himself into a pretzel. Updated 8/13/21: Nice thought, but this wasn’t working to keep Seger calm after Alan walked in and sat down. Seger was just too excited and wanted to climb all over him. So, we changed things up a bit, starting with Seger in a crate when Alan walks through the door. First, other dogs outside so they don’t add to the excitement. Second, Seger in a crate. Third, Alan greets Seger calmly while crated, then tosses treats on the floor in front of the crate to give Seger something low to the ground to focus on. Once he sees the treats Alan opens the door and Seger searches for treats. He continues tossing until Seger calms down. Then they great calmly. Here’s a video of the whole thing.

Pills! No doubt Seger will be coming home with daily pain meds and antibiotics, so we’ve been giving him treats wrapped in Pill Pockets, and occasionally we add a wrapped supplement capsule instead. Learned this and many other helpful hints from the Cooperative Care Certificate program. All he knows is that he’s getting extra cookies, and he’s pretty pleased with that!

No doubt we’ve forgotten something, but at least we’ve got a lot in place to make this whole experience a lot less trying for all of us. If you have additional ideas, feel free to share them below. They might help us. They might help someone else!

You’ll find updates on Seger’s recovery and rehab posted below as they become available, so check back here for more if you’re interested.

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Surgery Day

8/10/21
7:50 am

Off he goes…. I’m comforted in knowing that I’ve given him all the skills I could possibly think of, and that he’s done this before, when his stifles were scoped, so he’s familiar with how this goes. They’ll call when he’s being prepped for surgery and update me as soon as he’s in recovery.

8/10/21
5:15 pm

Seger’s waking up from surgery. Left stifle was debrided and drilled to stimulate bone growth. The larger lesion in the right stifle was cleaned up and a SynACART implant was installed. Can’t wait to have my boy back in the morning.

8/10/21
8:05 pm

Hi mom!! The staff was told me u were asking about me. I’m doing well! Currently I’m resting , I’ll be going outside later for a walk and to to eat. The staff here are giving me lots of love and cuddles. Can’t wait to see you tomorrow. Love, Seger

8/11/21
6:30am

Seger did very well overnight ! He slept ALOT do he should have plenty of energy when u come for pickup ☺️ He gets up fine without a sling. Slow to walk as expected but doing great.

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Recovery Begins

You’ll find the rest of Seger’s story at the end of this post. More helpful, I think, is to share some of the things we did along the way to keep him mentally stimulated during his very long rehab.

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Boredom Busters

Keeping Seger busy mentally while his body healed physically wasn’t as difficult as I thought it might be. Here are some of the games we played to keep him satisfied. If you’ve got your own ideas to share, feel free to post them in the comments!

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Trick Training

Learning new tricks and practicing the tricks he already knew in new ways kept him pretty busy, too. We focused on tricks that didn’t involve the limbs he had surgery on. You’ll find plenty of trick ideas on the Do More With Your Dogs website. You can even earn some trick titles along the way.

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Incorporating Tricks into Physical Therapy

When the time came for Seger’s physical therapy to start, I worked with the rehab veterinarian to design some games we could play using tricks he already knew, while he exercised his body in the way the doctor intended us to. Don’t go it alone! This is where you need the expertise of someone who understands how the body works and what the specific goals of rehab are. You might also be better off just leaving it to the professionals.

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The Rest of Seger’s Story

You’ll find some videos of the rest of our journey below, along with an update on where we are today.

One Year Post Op

It’s been a year since Seger’s surgery and he’s a very different dog today, much more comfortable in his body and moving so much more freely. A couple of months ago we started giving him Adequan injections to take his comfort and movement to the next level, so that he could start using his muscles in the way they were intended. That was a game changer for him and allowed us to transition from rehab to a conditioning program. Within a couple of weeks we started noticing all sorts of new things. He started jumping on us, placing his front paws on our shoulders. During meal time he stands on his hind legs while peering into his food bowl on it’s way down. It’s been fun watching a three year old dog discovering how to use his body in new ways. His alarm barking has disappeared altogether. And things just keep getting better and better.

Two Years Post Op

Seger got high marks for his flexibility and fitness today. Muscle mass 5% less on the right than the left rear, which is actually considered within normal limits, no more significant than most dominant sided individuals. Hips feel good and well supported, so that’s no worry. No big surprise that his stifles are a bit creaky but still well muscled. Back feels good. And here’s The Big News: if his surgeon agrees with the rehab vet, we’re inches away from a big, fat YES to Seger and Buzz playing in the yard together for The. Very. First. Time. You can count on video if that comes to pass.

We got the OK! Here’s the video…

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We’re keeping busy with training with nose work, trick training, rally and obedience, where he’s earned a whopping total of 53 titles to date. Seger also became the fourth German Shepherd in the country and eight in the world to earn his Grand Champion Trick Dog title with Do More With Your Dog.

With the implant in his right stifle, we’ll spend the rest of is life being thoughtful about how he uses that leg, and which activities he will and won’t participate in, so that we can keep him sound and happy. It’s been a long road, but we’d do it all over again to end up where we are today.

Deepest thanks to those who have helped us along the way: Seger’s fabulous rehab vet and technicians at Skylos Sports Medicine, breeder and mentor Suzanne Clothier, canine body worker Courtney Molino, canine chiropractor Donna Gigliotti, and the hundreds of Seger’s Facebook fans who gave us so much encouragement along the way. Your support means so much. I can’t imagine having gone through this without you.

When Does a Training Tool Become a Prop?

As trainers we have an abundance of tools available to us in the form of mats, platforms, perches, clickers, collars, harnesses, leashes. You name it, if you want to train something, there’s usually a gadget to help you and your dog make it so, whatever “it” is. Recently my adolescent German Shepherd Buzz gave me pause to ask, when does a training tool become a prop?

I’ve enjoyed working with her sharp mind and growing body immensely over the past few months. You name it, Buzz wants to try it. Nose Work, Rally, Agility, Disc, Therapy Work, she’s expressing interest in all of them. And it’s been fun exploring elements of each of them. We’ve incorporated platforms, perches and mats in many ways to introduce stays, positions, distance work, sends, coordination and movement relative to me. More specifically, she’s learned to find heel position by climbing onto a platform on my left side and sitting on it. I can toss a treat in any direction for her to get and when she returns she finds the platform and sits beautifully.

This morning I decided to begin transitioning away from the platform. I’d start her on the platform, toss a treat for her to get, take a few steps away from the platform, and wait for her to find heel position. She tried several things, none of which yielded what I had imagined. She sat on the platform I had walked away from without me. She sat in front of me. She even approached my left side and then backed onto the platform behind us and sat. BIG FAT TRAINER FAIL. Clearly she had become dependent on the platform, and what she learned was not what I thought I was teaching.

At least I finally recognized that I needed to regroup, so I stepped away from the now multiple platforms I had scattered across the driveway, to think for a moment. While I stood stumped, Buzz went from platform to platform, climbing on them, exploring the possibilities. And then she came over to me, sat in perfect heel position, and looked at me with her bright eyes and a big smile on her face. Quite surprised, I told her how brilliant she was and gave her lots of treats. Then I asked her if she could take a few steps with me and sit when I stopped. She said she could and she did. More praise and treats. We replayed that dance a few more times like we actually knew what we were doing. Turns out we DID know what we were doing, and we were doing it together.

When does a training tool become a prop? In simplest terms, when the dog – or handler – becomes dependent on it to perform a task. It seems that Buzz hadn’t become dependent on the platform to find heel position – I HAD. And boy did I let it get in our way.

Turning a training tool into a prop isn’t inherently bad. Sometimes they’re necessary to perform a task. Agility requires props that the dog jumps or climbs over, or goes through. Some tricks require props. If the dog is to drop a ball in a hoop, it requires that a ball and hoop are available to the dog. We train with these props with the end goal of interacting with them in some way.

Where it goes badly is when we lose sight of what we’re trying to achieve with the training tool and don’t create a plan to discontinue its use. In Buzz’s case things got a little messy, but not in a way that it affects our daily life. But what about training collars, head halters or no-pull harnesses, for example? So often those training tools become props that handlers become dependent on, with no way out.

What it took for me to bridge the gap with Buzz today was to connect, listen to what she had to say and act on it in a manner she could work with. No different than whatever training tool — prop — you and your dog may have become dependent on. Ask your dog what it takes to get where you want to be without reliance on equipment. Connect. You might be surprised with just how straight forward the answer is. And if it’s still unclear, find a professional who knows how to listen and won’t just reach for a prop.

Self Control: When an Ounce of Prevention Isn't Worth a Pound of Cure

Recently I’ve noticed a trend among dog trainers which involves using props and techniques to prevent a dog from doing x, y or z while training for a specific dog sport. I suppose it’s not a new thing really. I mean we’ve all used treats to prevent a dog from getting distracted in classes, and while waiting our turn to perform in competition, but this seems different to me. It’s more like trying to keep a lid on a pot that’s about to boil over, in the name of a flashy, living-on-the-edge performance that may or may not end well.  

The common player is an overly aroused dog who hasn’t learned the important skill of self control. The props and techniques used simply manage the dog’s arousal, or the damage he might do, but do nothing to actually teach the dog how to shift into the Think & Learn Zone on his own so that he can eventually achieve that dream performance without the aids that manage him.  

So what’s the difference between management and training? Suzanne Clothier offers an informative webinar on this very topic. The bottom line is that management prevents the dog from practicing unwanted behaviors. The goal of training, on the other hand, is to teach the dog skills he can apply to new situations. Management is used when the dog’s arousal shifts out of balance and he is unable to make good choices. Good training happens when the dog can think and learn. 

 What about self-control? What is that, exactly? I like this definition from Oxford Languages: “the ability to control oneself, in particular one's emotions and desires or the expression of them in one's behavior, especially in difficult situations.” I welcome you to an internet search to discover other definitions. What you’ll find is that they all have a common theme, that control comes from self, not from some outside force. The ability for the dog to control himself must come from within, and in order to teach it we must carefully select opportunities for him to practice it. 

And that’s where we sometimes lose sight of what we’re actually attempting to develop. We think we’re developing self control when we’re really just teaching another cued behavior. A good clue is that if you’re reliant on a technique or prop to practice self control during training, you’re managing. That means the dog isn’t learning how to shift his arousal on his own. 

You’ve probably seen countless photos of dogs seeming to practice self control while lying down behind their name, which has been carefully spelled out using treats. Which do you think was laid down first, the treats? Or the dog? If the dog was laid down and put into a stay first, the action of laying the treats and getting the camera to take the photo is simply a proofing exercise for the stay. If the treats were laid down first and then the dog was brought into lay down for the shoot without going for the treats, THAT’S unprompted self-control. You’ll find plenty of real self control being practiced on the Connection, Cooperation & Control YouTube Channel each and every time the dog passes a food puzzle which is being used as a reward.  

Food scattering is a technique in which the handler tosses food onto the ground and tells the dog to find the treats. Some trainers use it to distract the dog from something else that is occurring in the environment, like a dog passing by, or a squirrel scurrying up a tree. It’s a great strategy to keep the dog from getting into trouble. Others use food scatters to shift the dog’s arousal into a more productive state, as seeking requires a great deal of concentration. Both are solid ideas, but what are they actually teaching the dog about how to shift his arousal and make good choices for himself, when he’s not in training land, and when it’s not on cue? 

Some trainers use props as stations to help control the dog, like teaching the dog to lay on a mat, or sending him to a platform to contain him. Both serve as visual cues so the dog knows where to go, and where to stay. There’s that word “stay” again: a trained behavior rather than a volitional choice to practice impulse control. Do many dogs dash to their mat or perch on their own, without being cued? Of course they do. They’ve been rewarded in that coveted spot over and over again! While these props certainly serve their purpose, and the dog may eventually relax when he gets there, what happens in the real world when there is no mat or platform for the dog to cue on? How to they find self control on their own, without those props? 

In nose work, one of the skills taught is how to find a target odor in a closed container among many others.  A common problem among highly aroused dogs is the tendency to crush boxes, especially the odor box, in their quest to locate source. The problem is, destruction of items in the search area is faulted in competition, so handlers are constantly looking for ways to stop the crush. There are lots of ideas circulating about how to fix this problem in training, like using cinderblocks as containers so that destroying the container isn’t enjoyable for the dog, or putting the boxes under chairs or behind gates so the dog can’t access the box to crush it. But what happens in the heat of competition, when none of those aids are available? And what has the dog learned about how to actually control himself while searching? 

If you’re having to manage the dog in the middle of a training session, it’s likely that something is out of whack. There’s a really good chance that you’re running the dog beyond his functional mental capacity.  

Instead of interrupting training with management, it seems more fair to the dog to orchestrate separate training sessions where you can help him develop the self control that he’s lacking, to teach him skills he can use to adjust his own arousal without the need for special props and techniques.  

Take a look at your current training environment. Now strip it down of all the props and distractions, and you’ll have the perfect space to begin working on self control. (If you can’t do that it’s a good indication that it may not best place for you to be training your dog.) Bonus: you’ll also have a great space to continue practice those performance specific skills SEPARATELY. 

Now make a list of all the distractions you eliminated so that you can add them back in later, one-by-one, when the dog tells you he’s ready for each of them.

Create a detailed plan on how you will re-introduce each one in a controlled manner, so you can set him up for success. Instead of using real and very unpredictable squirrels, for example, tie some fishing line to a furry toy and have a helper tug on the line, when and how you tell her to, depending on what the dog needs. You’ll know you’ve got it right and are ready for the next step when it doesn’t look like training at all! Watch for smooth and swift responses rather than jerky movements from your dog as an indication that he’s practicing functional, productive arousal. He’ll tell you when he’s ready for the next step. 

• Teach your dog to offer unprompted eye contact to promote thoughtful connection. Remember, if it’s cued it won’t do anything to teach the dog how to control himself from within. Wait patiently for the dog to choose it, and pay handsomely when he does. Once he’s got that down, begin reintroducing those distractions, one by one, and in the controlled manner using the plan you laid out. 

• Practice your own breathing exercises to be sure you’re modeling balanced arousal for him 

• If you want to play a food scatter game, hunt for the treats with him to promote partnership. 

• Consider enrolling in the Connection Cooperation & Control program near you or online.

• Nose work peeps: set up simple searches without containers and practice your leash handling skills so that you can prevent your dog from charging into a search area. Here’s a free how to called Leash Brakes. Ask him for some behaviors to measure how smooth and swift his responses are before releasing him to search. Remember, smooth and swift = functional arousal. Once you’ve got your leash brakes in order, you might also be interested in this free lesson called Box Crushing 101. 

Setting your dog up to successfully practice volitional self control every step of the way will improve your performance immeasurably, and develop a partnership that’ll take you wherever you want to go. 

Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and into your dog’s instead. It’ll likely cure what ails you. 

More on Cooperative Care

A little over a year ago, after taking Seger to the vet for his puppy visits, I realized I had a big problem. Through no fault of his own, or the vet and her staff, Seger was pressured to the point of panic during an exam. Without thinking, I pushed him farther than he was willing to go, and was devastated that I had broken the trust we were just beginning to develop in our new relationship. I was even more heartbroken that he had not forgotten about it each time we returned for our next set of vaccines. I had visions of my soon-to-be 100 lb German Shepherd becoming labeled and handled as “one of THOSE dogs” and struggling with those visits for the rest of his life. And I promised him I’d do everything I knew how so that didn’t happen.

Pre-COVID our awesome vet gave us permission to visit weekly, to help Seger feel better about being in the clinic. We were diligent about going, but I felt a little unclear and overwhelmed about creating a solid training plan. Then COVID hit and we were unable to continue our work inside the clinic.

Shortly thereafter I was delighted to hear about Dr. Deb Jones’ Cooperative Care book and a course she was teaching at Fenzi Dog Sport Academy. I couldn’t wait to enroll and work through a structured program with Seger. It was a fantastic experience that I highly recommend.

Soon Dr. Jones announced a new Cooperative Care titling program and I was all in. It took what I had learned in the course to a whole new level with Seger, and he was pleased to continue our skills training. Together we completed all three levels of certification in just a few weeks.

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3

Just about the time I came off of cloud nine I realized that there was more work to do. It was great that he had skills for me, but what about applying it in more of a realistic veterinary way? And what about COVID and social distancing? I started pretending to do various aspects of an actual veterinary exam, and contacted my vet who agreed to meet for his exam in the parking lot, instead of taking him away from me. Then I got to work on practicing his chin rest on his Klimb tables in hopes that I could social distance when the time came.

Working for me was one thing, but working for someone else in my presence was altogether different. With a little research I made a whole new list of skills I wanted to introduce to Seger, and enlisted my husband to be “the vet.” Not only was he the only person I wasn’t social distancing from, but he was a familiar person who Seger adores.

Once Seger was a pro with his ever growing list of cooperative care skills at home, it was time to take the show on the road, with strangers, but not without careful thought about how and when to add additional stressors.

We started with strangers at home, outdoors.

Then Seger worked with the same people at the park.

Next we started working with strangers in new locations.

And finally, we practiced in the parking lot of the vet clinic.

In working with helpers I found the following to be key components:

• Ghost handling. I held the long line. One less thing for others to deal with.

• Be clear. Presentation is everything. I found that I had to adjust my instructions to my helpers to help them get it right for Seger. Focusing on the concept of consent seemed to do the trick. “If his chin is on the table he’s giving you consent. If he lifts his head he’s withdrawing consent. Take your hands off of him and ask for another chin rest. He’ll tell you when he’s ready. I’ll tell you when he lifts his head.” That last sentence was added after I noticed how difficult it actually was for folks to walk and chew gum!

• Treats in the pocket. When the helper held treats in the hand while trying to examine Seger, it really confused him! Were they coming towards him to give him a treat? Or was he supposed to be still? I reminded folks that they were rewarding Seger for having kept his chin on the table, nothing more. And I coached them to keep the treats in their pocket until it was time to reward.

• Luring adds pressure. Another reason I asked folks to keep treats in their pockets. It prevented pairing treats with touch, which can pressure a dog beyond his comfort zone and create conflict.

When the time came for Seger’s annual exam this morning I felt we were pretty ready, but I was also prepared to meet him where he was and adjust at any given moment. I set up his tables in front of the clinic, and demonstrated how it should go to the vet and her technician. As the vet practiced the chin rest on the table with Seger before examining him, I noticed that he was becoming more and more avoidant. As I watched more carefully I could see that she was using the treat as a lure. (See “Luring adds pressure” above.) A quick adjustment to ditch the tables and more importantly the treats, made things much more straight forward for both Seger and the doctor.

In the end, I simply had to ask for his cooperation when there isn't really any choice. Was it enjoyable? Hardly. Was he willing and tolerant? You be the judge. I'm pretty pleased with the results, and grateful to have a vet who is willing to work with us.

On this momentous day I’m thrilled to report that Seger is NOT “one of THOSE dogs” and will NOT be struggling with vet visits for the rest of his life! And if COVID cooperates, we’ll be continuing our training so that his next annual visit will be in an actual exam room.

In the meantime, we’re already working on what happens in the event that Seger does have to go into a veterinary clinic without me. We started at home with a familiar person, and have been working with our canine massage therapist, who is a stranger to Seger and whose magic hands will give him a pleasurable experience with me out of sight for an extended period of time. If these photos taken during his session are any indication, I think we’ve got it right.

HUGE thanks to everyone involved in getting us this far, and especially Dr. Cheryl Holmes and the great folks at Animal Medical Hospital at Glenwood for your patience and willingness to accommodate while I make good on my promise to Seger.

Cooperative Care

Seger’s a sensitive soul who hasn’t appreciated being physically restrained or manipulated since he was a wee pup. Because his early veterinary visits were quite stressful he remembers them well, which has resulted in Seger not even wanting to walk towards the clinic. Inside, the necessary exams intended to be delivered with great care turned out to be nightmarish emotional experiences for him. As I began to picture a lifetime of fear and anxiety at visits to my compassionate veterinarian and her very kind staff for my soon-to-be 100 pound German Shepherd I knew something had to change.

I began looking into the concept of cooperative care, an approach which involves training an animal to actively and willingly accept handling and restraint. Thankfully a friend turned me onto Dr. Deb Jones’ online course called Cooperative Canine Care at Fenzi Dog Sports Academy.

Having already cleared her busy schedule and an exam room once a week to meet with me and Seger, when I told my veterinarian Dr. Cheryl Holmes at the Animal Medical Hospital at Glenwood about the course she welcomed the training with open arms.

I also started using some of Suzanne Clothier’s Relationship Centered Training techniques into my training at the vet clinic.

Shortly after we began the online course I noticed that Seger was limping on and off on his left front. We continued working through the course the best we could. When the limping continued, even after three weeks of on & off exercise restriction, I decided to have him evaluated by Dr. Hummel at Skylos Sports Medicine. My choice not to have his regular vet evaluate him was deliberate. We had already made such significant progress in Seger’s feelings about being at the clinic that I didn’t want to undo them, especially since he was already painful.

I chose Skylos because I had heard the great folks there were flexible and accommodating with their clients and patients.  While I developed a plan for how I could help Seger through cooperative care during his visit I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in a new place, using our mostly brand new skills.

Seger had learned being on his mat was a very good place to be, and that choosing to jump on a table with his mat on it also yielded lots of yummy treats, so I packed his mat and planned to ask if he could be examined on a table rather than the floor, which had resulted in a fair amount of drama for him in the past.

His favorite trick had become resting his chin in my hand and holding it there until the treats came. We had practiced it once on the exam table with Dr. Holmes simply running her hands across his back and under his abdomen. But this time he’d be having a full orthopedic exam – while already painful.  I could only hope that our work-to-date would pay off in some fashion.

Realizing there would be radiographs I trained Seger to lay on his left and right sides and sternally using hand gestures and voice cues just two days before our appointment and prayed it would be enough to help him through x-rays.

On the day of our exam Seger and I walked into Skylos toting a large bag that contained different sized matting and a very large bag of treats. We were invited into an exam room by a technician who was there to take his history. I noticed there was no table in the room so I asked if it would be possible to examine him on a table. The tech seemed to scan the facility in her mind for a bit and then said they didn’t have anything like a table they could bring in. Then she left to deliver Seger’s history to Dr. Hummel. I wondered if we could make something into a table when I noticed the chair I was sitting on and the one next to it were perfectly flat and easily slid together to create a narrow table. While I waited for Dr. Hummel I unpacked Seger’s bath mat and laid it across the two chairs. He gladly hopped up and we practiced a few chin rests before the doctor came in.

When it came time for the exam I explained that things would be a thousand times easier for everyone if it could be done on the makeshift matted table I had created.  Dr. Hummel heard me and was more than willing to give it a try.  Seger jumped up onto the chairs and placed his chin in my hand when I asked him to. And he didn’t budge the entire time the good doctor palpated him from stem to stern.  While Seger wasn’t thrilled with the whole idea, he willingly tolerated what was being done to him. He could have chosen to lift his chin out of my hand and jump off the chairs at any moment. But he did not.

Next it was time for radiographs. I asked if I could put his mat on the xray table. After examining the mat the doctor agreed. Once his mat was laid out on the very tall table two techs, side by side, positioned themselves to lift Seger onto the table. After I asked for a chin rest they lifted him onto the table while Seger held the chin rest throughout. I asked for a down. Seger was a little concerned but obliged. Then I asked what side they wanted him to lay on – his right – so I asked him to lay on his right side. He wasn’t sure about that so I waited and asked him again, and he rolled onto his right shoulder and hip and put his head down. The techs patiently explained that they would need to position his legs to get the right views, and kindly waited for Seger to rest his chin in my hand while they moved his legs.  He did so without any resistance. I asked him to stay and stepped out of the room but stayed in sight while they took the xrays.  The same was repeated on Seger’s left side and sternally with full cooperation of my seven month old puppy, and no restraint whatsoever.  He even gave kisses to the nice ladies when he was done.  Another chin rest while they lifted him off the table and we were done.

On the way back to the exam room I noticed the muzzle that had been placed just outside the door and I smiled, so proud of what we had accomplished. We played catch the cookies in the room while waiting for Dr. Hummel to review the radiographs. And when he came into the exam room to share his findings Seger curled up and fell asleep.  I cannot express my gratitude enough to Dr. Hummel and the staff at Skylos for respecting Seger’s needs, my needs as a client, and for giving us the space and time we needed to make it the most comfortable experience possible for my dog.

Why was this experience so vastly different than any other veterinary experience Seger has encountered, which has also included visits two veterinary chiropractors in his short life?  Because we gave him the gift of knowing what to do, and the option to participate rather than making him do it. It’s when we don’t know what to do in times of stress that our emotional trains can derail.  It’s why we practice fire drills, so we know what to do.  Knowing what to do gave Seger something to focus on (stand on a matted table, put your chin in my hand, lay on your right side, lay on your left side) rather than panic. That all those things had been heavily reinforced prior to the big event gave him the confidence to know he was right and helped him to feel safe.  What could have been absolute disaster turned into an amazing experience that taught all of us something that day.

Back at our regular vet’s office we still have a long way to go. At yesterday’s training visit Seger gave me a stark reminder that he’s still the Captain of the cooperative care ship, that progress waxes and wanes despite my desire to push forward, and that listening to the dog matters. And Dr. Holmes reminded me of how far we’ve come.

I’m grateful for Seger’s very clear communications, and the patience of a fine veterinarian. And I’m fueled by the progress we’ve made. We’ll get there . . . .

Working with Dr. Holmes

Cooperative Care: Table Training at Home

Suzanne Clothier’s Treat Retreat Technique

Suzanne Clothier’s Go Hunt technique

Suzanne Clothier’s Really Real Relaxation

Cooperative Care: Getting on the Exam Table

cooperative care: Table Training at the Vet’s Office

cooperative care: Chin Rest

cooperative care: Side Training

cooperative care: Intro to Veterinary Holds

Learning to Listen

8 Weeks Old.

About a month ago I brought my German Shepherd puppy Seger home. Prior to his arrival I spent a good chunk of time puppy proofing the house, and thinking about all the enrichment I could provide him in the way of toys and obstacles. I registered for puppy class, ordered an ID tag for his collar, scheduled his first vet visit and planned out his socialization schedule. I was ready.

There was no one more committed and capable of giving him all the good, solid experiences he needed to be a productive canine citizen than his amazing breeder, Suzanne Clothier. Seger came to me with a very full toolbox of life skills to transition him into his new world and beyond.  And boy was that transition smooth.

I was equally committed to providing him all the additional experience I could to help him sort his world with confidence and curiosity. We were out and about almost daily to new locations, taking in what was happening there.  We’d walk in, he’d follow me on a loose leash and occasionally he’d stop for a moment. It only took a toy or a treat to encourage him along. And sometimes he’d bark. Sometimes he’d bark a lot.

9 Weeks Old.

Understanding that barking is simply a side effect of arousal it soon got on my radar. Someday that cute little goofy eared puppy of mine would become a handsome but intimidating 100 lbs adult German Shepherd. His barking, along with his prick ears, would not be taken well. His breeder reported that Seger seemed to have been the ringleader of his litter mates – a mob of 10 little puppy police officers packing their big mouths as weapons. He’d sound the alarm and all the other puppies would follow suit, which of course was nicely reinforcing for him.

I quickly set my sights on what was needed to preempt Seger’s barking, which required me to become more aware of the behavioral shifts that occurred before the barking started. With great care and consideration I became more thoughtful about how we entered a new space so I could watch for the slightest shift in behavior.  And soon I realized that it actually wasn’t such a subtle shift at all.  We’d walk along, and the moment Seger needed to process information he’d stop and sit.

Turns out that he had been doing it all along and I wasn’t listening. Instead of giving him the space and time to process, I was pressuring and rushing him through that transition with toys and treats, which would push him beyond his headlights and cause him to… BARK!

9 Weeks Old.

From that day forward I focused on listening to him.  If he stopped moving I would, too, giving him all the time he needed to process and only move along when he decided he was ready.  No big surprise that the barking has almost stopped altogether since then. Bonus: he now looks at me when he’s ready to sit, as if to let me know it’s coming.

Another challenging part of bringing a new puppy home is learning their daily routine, including their sleep schedule. As many puppies do, Seger experienced what we began calling the witching hour, which happens just before he crashes for the night. It very much resembled releasing a balloon while letting out the air.  He’d ricochet around the room like a little mad man, grabbing and throwing toys and crashing into whatever got in his way.  It could go on for several minutes but when it was done he was fast asleep in about thirty seconds.

It was amusing the first night.  By the second night my sensibilities kicked in.  “Don’t let him practice the behaviors you don’t want.”  Out of control, unproductive arousal was definitely not something I wanted him to get much experience practicing. On the third night I prepared myself and waited for the witching hour.  When I could finally catch the whirling dervish I calmly picked him up, put him in my lap, held him firmly with my hands on his shoulders and slowed my breathing. I talked to him quietly and softly, at which point he almost immediately melted and fell asleep.

13 weeks old. He’s just settled his body into my lap, but his pupils show that he’s still fighting to find balance.

The following night I prepared myself again, but this time, as he began winding up and started flinging himself around, he hesitated for a moment, then ran to me and climbed in my lap. I put my hands on his shoulders, slowed my breathing, and he fell asleep.  That followed for the next several nights in a row.

Now he transitions into sleep without the chaos most nights, but on nights when the witching hour kicks in he’s quick to find me so I can help him get where he wants to be.

Recently, while in my classroom, he was surprised when someone walked in unexpectedly.  Unfortunately the barking ensued but was completely ignored by the “intruder.”  More barking ensued as she continued to approach me. I watched him and was trying to do my best to manage the situation when all of a sudden he stopped barking, came over to me, leaned his shoulder into my hand and looked into my eyes in the same way that he does when he wants help through the witching hour. I followed his lead in the same manner that has become our routine, and felt the familiar softening and settling into my hands. He could have continued barking, but chose to come to me for support instead.

I love that he’s learning to differentiate between productive and unproductive arousal at 13 weeks of age and recognizes which one makes him feel balanced. But what I love even more is that he looks to me to make it so. Just another addition to his toolbox for life that will help guide our relationship through adolescence and far beyond.

And to think that all I did was listen.

Is It Best to Stay Away?

My dog Swift and I were enjoying our walk in the park this morning when I saw a man and his dog off in the distance, heading our way. As they got closer I noticed a very happy Doodle who was hoping to have an encounter with a new K9 buddy. I asked Swift to come to my side, shortened the leash and readied myself to ward off an overly exuberant dog and his enthusiastic person.

“Good morning,” the man said. “Is it best to stay away?”

I stood gobsmacked, completely unprepared with an answer to THAT question. Then I smiled and said, “Yes. Thank you.” And off we all went on our merry ways.

“Is it best to stay away?” What a brilliant question!  It sets everyone up for success instead of conflict.

Hopefully people who walk their dogs looking for pooch playmates (or people without a dog who just want to say hi to yours) politely ask, “Can we say hello?” But this requires those who aren’t interested in a canine social interaction for whatever reason to say NO, instantly creating an unspoken awkwardness between parties.

“Is it best to stay away?” takes conflict off the table because the Pooch Smoocher or Playmate Seeker gets the answer RIGHT. Bonus: the answer might actually result in an invitation for a social interaction with the dog! 

Dog walkers not interested in a social interaction for their dogs do so for many reasons.

1. Their dog is reactive towards other dogs or people.

2. Their dog isn’t particularly interested in socializing with other dogs or people.

3. Their dog is busy enjoying a good sniff.

4. They’re in the middle of a training session.

5. The owner is simply looking for some quiet time with their dog.

For these folks “Can we say hello?” sets up the weird dynamic of having to defend their dog’s right not to have a social encounter. “Is it best to stay away?” relieves that pressure and leaves the person feeling appreciative that their dog’s needs were considered.

The next time you’d like to interact with someone else’s dog try “Is it best to stay away?” It’s a WIN/WIN for all involved.

Many thanks to the stranger and his super cute dog who took the time to ask this morning.

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Interested in carrying some of these “Is it best to stay away?” cards on your walks to share with others? Click on the image to download and print.

Suzanne Clothier offers a great resource to help folks understand why your dog might not want to say hi. Click on the image to download your FREE copy.

Swift Return

Swift's Story

On September 3, 2017 our dog Swift escaped from our yard.  He had gotten out of the yard a few previous times by ducking under the worn wire of our split rail fence to chase deer.  As a preventative we had just had the entire acre of fencing repaired and the wiring replaced the week before, and felt it was safe for him. After only ten minutes in the yard we discovered he was missing, and set out on our search with whistles and business cards in hand (more on that later.) We handed out business cards to everyone we came across. 

We searched the neighborhood for two hours before we came home empty handed and sat down to create some flyers and plan our next steps. That's when the phone rang. The woman on the other end said her husband had just come home and told her about Swift, and she just happened to have seen photos of him posted on social media by a friend of hers. She gave me her number, I called, and we picked Swift up within minutes, a mile away from our home.

We're grateful for a happy ending and determined to do everything in our power to prevent another escape.  But if it does happen we'll have planned for it as proactively as possible, using the ideas below.  

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How Can You Improve Your Chances of a Swift Return?

There is plenty that you can do before your dog goes missing to improve your chances of finding him.  All it takes is a little preparation time and some training.  Please -- don't wait until he's gone to hatch your plan!  

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MICROCHIP YOUR PET

Is your dog microchipped? Have you registered and/or updated your information at the microchip registry?  Most veterinarians and animal control facilities will gladly scan your dog's microchip if he is brought into their clinic, but the microchip company won't be able to contact you unless you've submitted your contact information at their registry.  The small chip placed just above your dog's shoulders is worth installing, but do register it too!

GPS TRACKING COLLARS

There are many GPS tracking collar options available. Some require a monthly monitoring fee and others do not.  Some require your dog wear a special collar, and others can be attached to your dog's existing collar. Some have apps for your phone, others don't.  

Check out this website that lists the top 15 GPS tracking collars for pets and consider what will work best for your dog. Swift now wears a Whistle 3 tracking device on his collar.

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WHISTLE RECALL TRAINING

Teaching your dog to recall to a whistle can be a powerful resource.  The idea is to have whistles available to hand out to folks when your dog goes missing so that they can also blow their whistles in hopes of locating the dog or even having the dog come to them.  No one can recreate the voice you use when you call your dog, but everyone can recreate the sound of the whistle.  Also, while voices can carry a great deal of emotion that might keep your dog away, the whistle does not. Swift had just started his whistle recall training the week before he escaped, so we had no idea what affect blowing the whistle might have but it was worth a try.  We did confirm that the noise carried much further than our actual voices while we were out searching!  

Here's how you can train your dog to recall to a whistle:

Once your whistle recalling training is complete create a kit of several tagged whistles and store them where you can find them later. Just be sure you've bought several of the same exact whistles so the tones are as similar as possible.

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BUILD A SCENT KIT FOR YOUR DOG

If you are fortunate to have a tracking service like Dogs Finding Dogs or Pure Gold Pet Trackers in your area, a good scent article is essential for a successful search. If there are multiple pets in the household, it is suggested a scent article is made for each of the pets so that the tracking dog has an individual, uncontaminated article to identify which animal they are looking for.  

Here's how you can make a scent kit for your dog:

• Take a clean, damp rag or wash cloth and using gloves, wipe the pet all over to include the nose, ears, toes, abdomen and chest.

• Hang the cloth to dry.

• When it is completely dry secure in a sealed, zip lock bag.

• Label the bag with the pet's name.

• Repeat this for all of the pets in the home, ensuring that different gloves are used for each pet to avoid cross contamination.

• Store your dog's scent kit in a location that's easy to remember when you need it.
  
  
  Special thanks to Grinner Christine Rojas, pictured on the left with her pet tracking dog Keelah, for this great tip!

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BUSINESS CARDS FOR YOUR DOG

Passing out business cards turned out to be key for Swift's safe return.  There are several online services where you can create a card for your dog and order on the spot. Office Depot and Vista Print are only two of many.  Keep it simple or be as creative as you like. But do be sure you have them on hand before you need them, and store your dog's cards in a safe place so you can find them easily in a pinch.

If you can't source cheap business cards immediately you can have a flyer printed 4 to a page and then cut. These are so helpful for handing out to folks and many convenience stores will let you place a small stack at their checkout even when they have a "No posting flyers in the window" policy.  -Thanks to Kristina P. for this great idea.

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USE SOCIAL MEDIA

If you're on Facebook you may find a local page where people share important happenings in your community.  Build a page for the sole purpose of finding your dog, and share it on the community page.  Be sure to include photos that show any unique markings your dog may have and your contact information in everything you post, and make your posts public for maximum effect.  Do consider what you'll share that will keep you safe but also promote your need as widely as possible. Consider how Twitter and Instagram might also help you spread the word.

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FREE ONLINE FLYER TEMPLATES

If you search the internet for "lost dog flyer template" you'll find several available.  Pet FBI offers a template and also offers helpful tips about lost pets, including how and where to post your flyers for the most benefit. When you print, make them BIG so drivers can see them as they pass by.  Laminating your flyers can protect them from moisture. - Thanks to Rhoda E. for sharing this tip.

Reader Kristina P. shares: Another easy way to make larger, cheaper posters is to print a standard sized color pic of the dog, put that in a page protector (opening at the bottom of the pic) and put that in the middle of a brightly colored piece of poster board. Then use a wide-tip sharpie marker to Add "Lost" and a phone number. Drivers don't have time to read much and it will pull focus to the pic. The poster board will hold up in mild rain and the pic will stay bright.

Don't forget to take down your flyers once your dog has been found!

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FINDTOTO is an online service that alerts folks in your area via telephone, social media and Google ads when a pet goes missing. There are varying levels of service available, depending on how much you'd like to spend.  

Bookmark the link to their website so you can retrieve when you need it.  To date they've located over 10,000 missing pets!

Diva's Spay Surgery

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January 1, 2018

Diva will be spayed in a couple of months and I'm already dreading it.  I'm not looking forward to leaving her at the vet, or waiting anxiously to hear that the surgery went well. I won't be able to get to the vet's office quickly enough to put my eyes on her and know that she's going to be just fine. And I'm not looking forward to the days following the procedure, keeping her settled and comfortable as she recovers and heals. 

She's never been under anesthesia, or had any procedure done out of my sight.  And while I've got great confidence in the medical staff who will care for her before, during and after her surgery, as her owner I'm charged with protecting her from pain and undue stress, and yet I'll hand over her leash and send her on her way that morning, knowing full well that she has no idea what's will happen later in the day, or what's in store for her in the coming days. Not a whole lot of options to change that, but there is plenty that I can do to prepare her for the big day and the days that follow. 

This blog chronicles various things I've done to familiarize Diva with some things she'll be experiencing before, during and after surgery.

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The Surgi Snuggly

Diva's a BIG licker of wounds and sore spots, so I was pleased to come across the Surgi Snuggly, which will hopefully deter her from licking her incision while she heals, for times when she's supervised and taking a break from her Elizabethan collar.  The snug fit should also give her some comfort, like a Thundershirt for anxious dogs.

Because Diva's also not a fan of wearing "clothes", the last thing I want to do is add stress by introducing it when she's already uncomfortable and possibly painful.  Instead, we're working on wearing it now.  She's learning that amazingly good things happen when she wears her suit.  And when the awesomeness is finished, the suit comes off.  The videos below show Diva enjoying a bully stick, getting treats out of a loaded treat ball and chasing tossed treats while she's suited up.

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The Lamp Shade

The Surgi Snuggly will help buy me a little time if she tries to clean her wound while I'm supervising her, but there will often be times that I'm not available to watch her closely. That means she'll spend a good amount of time in an Elizabethan collar, and she's not particularly fond of things that go over those big, beautiful ears of hers.

In this video I'm teaching her to put her head through the hole in the cone, and introducing a bit of duration at the very end.  

The next step was to begin moving while she was wearing the cone.

Next we worked on wearing the cone for a few seconds. A jar of baby food keeps Diva enthusiastic about game.

The Surgi Snuggly was added once she was comfortable moving in the cone.

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Holding for a Jugular Blood Draw

The veterinary staff may need to draw blood as part of the process, so I want to be sure Diva is familiar and comfortable with what that feels like. Watch this video carefully.  Diva's not the only one who's learning!  By letting her use space as she needs to she's telling me when it's too much, sometimes she leans away as I move closer, and sometimes I've missed the memo and gone too far. At the end of the video, when I've asked for too much, she leaves a few times before she's willing to try again.  Letting her do so takes the pressure off.  Notice how she holds her position when she's ready to try again. Be sure to listen to what your dog is telling you!

Diva's actual blood draw.

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Restraint for Sedation

Shortly after being dropped off for surgery Diva will be sedated so that she can be shaved and a catheter can be placed.  Hospital staff will hold her for an injection that will sedate her.  In this video I'm introducing her to how she'll most likely be held and restrained for her injection.  

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There are plenty of other things you can do to help your dog before and during her hospital stay.  Check with your veterinary clinic to see if you can spend some time taking your dog in and out of the hospital cages, or if they'll allow you to be present when your dog is sedated.  Bring an old towel or blanket with your scent to put in the cage with your dog., but be sure it's something you don't want back as it may get soiled during your dog's stay.

When you drop your dog off for surgery, ask the veterinary staff if you can walk your dog back to the cage that's reserved for her, and let her know you'll be back!  Escorting your dog can start the day off a little less stressful than it might otherwise be.

The more positive experiences your dog can have prior to surgery, the easier her procedure and recovery will be.  Give your dog the gift of preparation.  It'll make things easier for everyone involved.

Special thanks to Dr. Leslie Carr and her support staff at Arnold Pet Station, for your great care of Diva and me throughout this process!

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Diva Post Surgery

March 1, 2018

Life goes on in the Knowlton home, thankfully much more smoothly than it might have been for all the careful planning and preparation we invested in along the way.  And worth every minute!

We're now looking forward to the day Diva and run full speed across the yard to fetch her ball again and jump in the bed at night for a snuggle.  It won't be very long now . . . .

Just home from surgery.

48 hours post surgery.

48 hours post surgery.

I'll Be Back

“I’ll be back.” It’s interesting how powerful three simple words can be. When sitting with a friend who gets up and says “I’ll be back,” their intent is clear, and we know what we’re supposed to do in the meantime.

But imagine what your experience might be if your friend just gets up and wanders off without any further information. How would that make you feel?  Would you be confused?  Concerned?  Might you be angry?  Perhaps annoyed?  While each of us might experience it differently, one thing is certain.  It would leave us feeling uneasy to some degree.

It’s not much of a stretch to believe that dogs might also feel uncomfortable when we walk away from them without any other communication, and yet we often forget to include them in our plan. Some dogs may take it in stride, but it may concern others greatly.  When the dog understands what “I’ll be back” means, it can take some of the worry away.

Recently I had the opportunity to work with some folks whose dogs experience varying levels of crate anxiety. Using Suzanne Clothier’s well thought out process of teaching “I’ll be back,“ we started with the handlers facing their dogs in crates, saying “I’ll be back”, turning away from the dog for a second, then turning back and giving a treat.  By the end of class handlers were leaving the classroom after saying “I’ll be back” and then coming back in to reward the dogs at their crates.  Bonus for the dogs: other handlers were stopping by to reward with treats while their handlers were away.  By the end of the class some dogs were so busy watching what everyone else was doing that they didn’t even notice that their handler had returned!  There was a lot of great learning that happened that day, and a lot of confusion and concern about being left in a crate was washed away.

I teach my dogs the skill of “I’ll be back.”  When we load up in the van and I’ve forgotten something in the house, I let them know I’ll be back.  In the event that I need someone to hold my dogs’ leash so I can use the bathroom, I let them know I’ll be back before I leave.  But I don’t think I realized just how valuable “I’ll be back” was until today.

This morning I dropped my dog Diva off to be spayed.  I was grateful for the opportunity to walk her back and put her in her assigned cage myself, and I made sure to tell her “I’ll be back” before I walked away.  I’d like to think it offered her some comfort today.  I know it comforted me, and I’ll keep holding onto that until I pick her up later this afternoon.

Just some food for thought.  That’s all for now, but rest assured . . . I’ll be back!

(If you’re interested in some of the other things I’ve done to prepare Diva for today’s surgery, you’ll find more details here.)

Adaptability Matters

The Blizzard of 2016 dropped 28” of snow in my neck of the woods this weekend -- the highest recorded snowfall in Baltimore history.  Despite a significant shift in the exercise routine and access to the great outdoors it proved to be just another day in the lives of our dogs, except for Groovy, who depends on rituals and patterns like no other dog I’ve ever met.

My earliest memory of Groovy’s obsession for patterns quite literally revolves around his puppy crate, which sat in the kitchen.  Every morning we’d let the dogs out, and when they came back in Groovy would get a treat for getting into his crate before we left for work.  Diving into his crate, he’d duck his head under the door, spin around, and duck his head back through the opening to await his reward.  He was a quick study, and made a mad dash for his crate as soon as he came through the doorway . . . which turns out to be my second hint that something seemed more than slightly out of balance.

The dogs came in through the garage, and every morning I’d watch Groovy run around the van three times clockwise before he’d come through the door into the house and dive into his crate. Even when his crate was no longer there.  Yes, for days after I had decided that he no longer needed to be crated and had therefore removed it, Groovy would run to the spot it had been, duck his head, spin around, duck his head again, and wait for his treat.  I finally started scattering kibble in the spot where his crate had been just to help him break the cycle.

Convincing him not to run around the van three times before coming in has proven to be much more challenging and fairly stressful to him, so much so that nine years later we just wait for him to complete the cycle and come inside. 

Groovy repeats the exercise where ever we ask him to come inside.  Years ago we stopped inviting him inside from the deck for fear that he’d injure himself circling the stairs three times and then launching his body to the top of the deck skipping all six stairs.  This spring, when we had our addition built with an adjoining deck, we made special accommodations with fewer stairs to be sure Groovy could clear them, and I carefully crafted a plan to teach him how to climb the new stairs so he’d have another access into the house.  This video shows the results of our efforts, and Groovy’s reality.

Interrupting Groovy while he’s in motion is quite stressful for him, and has revealed rituals that I might have otherwise not noticed.  Once our old dog crossed Groovy’s path while he was dashing towards the door to go out and left him standing frozen in the middle of the kitchen floor while he appeared to be sorting something out.  Then he ran back to where he came from and started over before dashing out the door.

It’s a fairly safe bet for Groovy to run up the ramp to my classroom and wait for me to open the door when I let him out of the van.  Once however, I was holding class in the parking lot and brought Groovy out of the van to be my demo dog.  Although I showed him my intended direction, he started up the ramp.  As he reached the end of his leash and turned around he stood frozen when I asked him to join me in the other direction.  He seemed confused as he stared at me, simply unable to oblige.  So, with a quick adjustment I took him up the ramp, into my classroom and then we both turned around and joined my class in the parking lot where his demo went off without a hitch.

This is what it looked like when we opened the door to the backyard.  The snow was 3-4 feet high.

And that brings me back to The Blizzard of 2016, which was anything but normal for Groovy.  With 28” of snow and five foot drifts access to the back yard was impossible for about 24 hours as the snow fell, so we relied on sending the dogs into the front yard through the garage door.  During this time I learned a few things about The World According to Groovy.  First, if there are multiple dogs with you when the garage door opener is pushed, it is not time to potty, even when all the other dogs are pottying.  It means you’ll be playing Frisbee, so bark at the top of your lungs for joy and wait for your person to get the toy.  Sending the other dogs back inside was helpful and Groovy managed to urinate several times throughout the day when he was out by himself.  Each time he went out he’d also go to the door that led to the backyard insistent that it be opened.  And then he’d stand gob smacked at what he saw.

I knew he was asking to go into the backyard to defecate, but the storm left us helpless to accommodate his needs.  I felt awful for him, even after he finally had to go so badly that he resorted to hiking through the deep snow and into a void from a drift to relieve himself almost 12 hours later.

As the snow continued to fall I obsessed a little myself about how to make the yard functional for Groovy as well as our other dogs.  What about those deck stairs?  How would he manage them without being able to circle around them for the snow depth even if we cleared the steps?  How might we clear a path at the other door so that he’d have access to do his all of his business?  Would that need to be his access to inside as well?

In the end we worked out a system to suit everyone, but still not without emotional cost to Groovy, who has had to rethink how he gets inside.  Thankfully this part of his routine isn’t as ritualized as some of the others and he manages to make it happen.  But I’ll be especially happy for him when the snow finally melts and the world as he knows it returns to him.

The patterns and rituals that drive Groovy make him an amazing obedience dog and a fun trick dog for the repetition required for both.  He excels at predictability and delights in routine.  He’d really shine in competitions, if they were held at indoor facilities without stairs or loud speakers, and the trials weren’t busy, and as long as we didn’t have to travel too far or stay in a hotel, or it wasn’t too hot.  

That’s quite a list of restrictions, and while the stars might align every once in a while to make it so, more often than not, like other handlers, I might be compelled to ignore one or two of those conditions if I chose a competitive path for him.  And for each layer that was removed in favor of one more chance to compete, the distress it caused Groovy would cost him mentally, emotionally and even physically.

You see that’s what happens with animals who have difficulty adapting to the world around them.  Each time the dog is put in a situation that pulls him out of balance mentally, emotionally or physically – whether we intend to or not -- he pays a price we can only begin to understand.

The distress placed on the dog can manifest in the following ways and to varying degrees:

• Muscle tension
• Constricted breathing
• Irritability
• Depression
• Loss of confidence
• Apprehension
• Indifference
• Foggy thinking
• Impaired judgement
• Indecision
• Loss of appetite

For Groovy it actually causes psychogenic fever, which unfortunately took years of observation and documentation to uncover before we were able to provide him with the predictability and routine he thrives on today.

Adaptability matters greatly.  The next time you find yourself saying, "He's fine unless . . . ," I urge you to take a moment to consider how adaptable your dog is, and what his needs might be. Simply put, when we diminish or overlook the dog’s needs and ask him to perform in ways that suit our own, we put the animal’s well-being at serious risk. 

Suzanne Clothier’s Functional Assessment Tool is a great way to assess and compare your dog’s adaptability in a variety of settings:  home without guests, home with guests, at grandma’s house, in class, at the hotel, during competitions, etc.  Email info@suzanneclothier.com for more details on this powerful tool.

Once we set aside whatever personal goals we might have and see the dog for who he is we may find that he’s perfectly adaptable to the role we’ve envisioned for him.  Or we may find that he is not.  But what we will find is the information we need to provide the dog with a life that keeps him whole.

We’re grateful to have found ways to offer Groovy a balanced life to the best of our abilities.  Despite some bumps along the way, he’s a very happy dog who feels safe.  And he’s loved very much.